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Wednesday 9 September 2015

Back to the Basque Country- Gora, Gora, Gernika!

So, before moving to Spain, I admit that I didn't know much past Madrid, Barcelona, the Balearics, and the Canaries. I knew there was somewhere that people went to called Benidorm that I wasn't keen to visit in a hurry, and some Costas here and there. In the last year, I've been slowly broadening my Spanish horizons; one of my favourite discoveries has undoubtedly been the Basque country, up in Northern Spain.

On my previous two visits, I had been to Bilbao, San Sebastian, and some smaller towns around the latter. Now, it was time to visit the home town of my good friend Lide- the famous Gernika, the war bombing of which was the subject of that famous black and white Picasso painting.

Guernica, by Pablo Picasso (June 1937). Click here to find out more about the painting.

Just like the last time we went to the Basque country, the weekend was short, but somehow did not feel rushed. This is probably because Lide knew exactly which spots to take us to,  so no time was wasted.

On our whirlwind tour, we visited other local spots, including Laga, which was the kind of beach I love- rugged, natural, serene- and Mundaka, the worldwide famous surf spot. Seeing the rocks that the surfers have to launch from in the latter, it's clear that nothing in the Basque country is done by halves. We also passed through Elanxobe, a lovely little cliff-set town where we tried some local rabas (calamari), and some freshly caught snails. At night, we met up with Lide's friends and checked out the local Gernika nightlife- a lot of fun if a little surreal, as no less than three wedding parties rocked up at one of the nightclubs.

Ever since Lide told me tidbits about her home town, the one part that's always really intrigued me is the famous oak tree of peace. Basques from all over would gather around the tree to peacefully discuss socio-political matters, and soon it became a symbol of peace all around the local area. Ironically, when Franco had Gernika bombed in 1937, with the help of German and Italian forces, this tree managed to remain. More than a little symbolic, I feel- peace will always win.

Nina and I wanted to find out a little more about the wartime bombing (click here to find out more) that practically obliterated this tiny town. So, we headed to the Museum of Peace, while Lide spent some quality auntie-niece time with her adorable 2 year old niece, Yare. However, spending time with Yare was also educational- I learned that 'bai' was her favourite word, and did not mean 'goodbye', but 'yes'. That's all the Basque I've managed to retain so far, and it's thanks to Yare!

The famous oak tree, now protected by stone pillars.

Massive thanks to Lide for showing us around your lovely home town- it's always extra special to get a local guide, especially when they are one of your really good friends! Thanks to your mum, dad, sister, brother-in-law, and even little Yare too- and your friends, for making us feel welcome on our night out. This weekend just cemented my love for the Basque country- I love the exquisite cuisine, and the rugged strength of the seas, landscape and people. You can't help leaving the Basque country with a refreshed mindset, and deeper appreciation of nature- which is why I'll certainly be returning in the very near future.

Here are an assortment of photos from the weekend- enjoy!





Bacalao pil-pil- codfish with a buttery, almost gelotine-like topping. Washed down with some txakoli, of course!

Laga beach.


Enjoying the rugged landscape at Laga.


Beautiful views of Laga below.


The vivid green of the Basque Country reminds me of home a little!






Elanxobe!


Locals cordoning off their own private bit of road in order to socialise. And why not?


The cafe where we enjoyed...

...rabas!



Impromptu decision to eat fresh snails...




Best not to look at the snail before you eat it, but oh well...

Lide's mum's homemade chiperones- squid in ink sauce! 

Chiperones, rice and tuna/onion salad...can't get enough of the food in this part of the country!

Views from Mundaka.

Basque flag flying proudly in front of Mundaka town.

Traditional Basque housing on the left.

Crazy pose! OK. let's try something a little more adventurous...

Yoga pose! Wait, I can't balance, how about a jumping pose?.....

....hmm, maybe not!


Lide shows me how its done!





Sunset beer...






The Museum of Peace, where Nina and I learned a little more about the 




Couldn't leave the Basque country without trying some pintxos...

Hmmm, which one first?...

...ahh who cares, let's just tuck in!!