Second Calçotada Of The Year...

Carrying on the Catalan feel of the weekend after our trip to Manresa, I attended my second calçotada in a mountainside restaurant near Casteldelfels, along with Erin and ASB colleagues.

Between January and March, Catalans all over the region hold special social lunch events called calçotadas- a time to eat newly ripe calçots, drink and be merry. See below for more details of what the whole event entails...

We started the day with a hike to the ruins of the 'Castillo d’Eramprunyà', which was perfect for working up an appetite. This does not always precede a calçotada, but it was a great idea, because we needed quite the appetite...pan tomaquet, calçots (a green onion somewhere in between a spring onion and leek, see here for more details), a looot of meat- lamb, chicken, pork, botifarra sausages- various accompanying sauces and aioli, red wine...AND crema catalana. Needless to say, my stomach is feeling a little interesting right now- but it was worth every bite.


Eating the calçots themselves is quite the interactive experience- first, you pull off the deeply charred outer layer then dip your smooth calçot into a delicious nut and tomato romesco sauce. Erin is demonstrating to the right! You are given around 10-15 calçots all for yourself- surprisingly filling! The meat that followed was mouth-wateringly good, but we had filled ourselves up by the time it came around. All of this was washed down with some wine- drunk both the traditional way and through a 'porrón'- a jar with a thin spout through which you pour the wine directly into your mouth. The latter is infinitely messier, but much more fun! There is a photo below of my attempt.

If you ever visit Catalonia during this season, I would definitely recommend trying to catch a calçotada. The restaurant we went to, Ermita de Brugués, was great- around 30 minutes from Barcelona by car. However, there are always random ones happening in city neighbourhoods like Gracia as well that will vary according to the year, so you may need to ask around once you get here.

Excuse the smudged photos below- peeling the calçots is a mucky business, and unfortunately camera unfriendly.  They provide you with bibs for a reason! Enjoy...

The chapel of the castillo d’Eramprunyà, built in Roman, Gothic and Renaissance styles.

The lord of the castle made sure his face was built into the building!

The 'Roca Foradada', or the 'Rock with a Hole'. It was apparently wind that caused this rock to be hollow.

Our guide, Elena, Kristin and Erin hiking up the hill.

All the girls mid-hike (L-R Natalie, Elena, Nina, me and Erin)

Relaxing in the gorgeous sunshine after the short hike.

Comoooo???

Calçots!

Mucky hands guaranteed!

Peeling process in motion...

Artichokes...a common accompnyment. I'd never really had artichokes before coming to Spain; these ones were particularly soft and delicious.

Opening the artichoke up like a flower!

A very garlicky aioli for the bread and meat, and the obligatory olives.

Attempting to drink from the 'porrón'.

MEAAAAAT

A silly selfie! (L-R Astrid, Nina, me, Erin and Elena)

A Quick Visit To An Old Friend In Manresa...

While I'm living in Barcelona, I'm determined to see as much of Catalonia as possible. I'm pretty lucky to have a friend living in the very centre, in a city called Manresa. I've known Eva since the TEFL course at Oxford House- it was lovely to catch up with her, and to explore her city with Nina and Julie. Getting there from Barcelona was very easy- just one train- and offered incredible views of the famous Montserrat mountain.

I definitely felt like I was in a distinctly Catalonian city here- all shop signs and menus was solely in Catalan, the bartenders spoke either Catalan or English, and we bumped into a sardena (a traditional Catalan dance- see the photos below) on the main Passieg. We just missed out on going to a €10 calçotada happening in a random city square, but it was fun to watch the locals tucking in and engrossing themselves in calçots and merry conversation. Also, watching the locals dance the same perfectly-synchronised delicate steps, while listening to the accompanying brass band under the pastel-coloured sky, was a great way to see in the evening.

It is a rare treat to find a city that has unique character, but is completely walkable; Manresa may be small, but it definitely has a lot to offer. Even better, the old city is largely untouched- unlike Barcelona's Barri Gotic, no touristy shops/bars here.

Seeing this city has whetted my appetite for seeing more Catalan cities- Girona, Tarragona, Manresa...perhaps Figueres, with its Dali museum, or Vic, from Eva's recommendation next? We shall see...

A train with a view...Montserrat, the pride and joy of Catalonia, stands in the background.

La Seu- the grand cathedral, and the first thing you notice upon entering Manresa.

A random calçotada happening in a plaza.

Locals enjoying the calçotada.

Monserrat popping up in the background.

Eva and I under the cotton candy sky.

A brass band providing music for the sardana, a traditional Catalan dance.

Locals taking part in a sardana. Occasionally, passer-bys would join the circle.

La Seu lit up at night.

Epic burger at Braserie El Glop.

Montserrat popping up in the distance once again.

Homemade vermout that I bought from a local shop, on Eva's recommendation- delicioso!

Road Trip To Madrid...Rediscovering Spain's Capital

Don't you love the surprises that life sometimes throws at you? When my colleague and good friend Astrid said that she was driving to Madrid on the weekend, Julie and I jumped at the chance to go with her. 

I've been to Spain's capital city twice before- once when I was fourteen, and then again in 2013 for a wedding that I almost completely missed as we got the days confused! The first time I had arrived by plane, the second by train...arriving by car seemed like a fun alternative for the third time around.

Astrid was an absolute trooper for driving most of the distance there and back; it's certainly not a quick journey. Aside from our little detour to a random Spanish pueblo for petrol, it was a pretty straight ride on the motorway. We got to experience true Spanish kindness when a local from the pueblo drove us 15 minutes out of his way to the nearest petrol station, just to make sure that we didn't get lost. I love encountering genuinely good people on my adventures.

Onto Madrid itself. They say that third time's a charm- and it certainly was in this case. This time was a perfect mix of discovering new parts of the city, such as the tranquil El Retiro park, and revisiting old haunts like the Meson de Champi in La Latina.

I'd definitely recommend our Airbnb host, Ignacio- he was incredibly helpful with information about the city, and even made us a little breakfast both mornings. When staying in a city like Madrid, location is everything- and being by El Retiro proved to be a great base. Walking distance from Gran Via, La Latina, all the major museums (if you are so disposed...we were not this time), Plaza Mayor...all the hotspots. You can find the room and rates right here.

Here are a few highlights from our weekend:

• Trying the bocadillo calamares in a little side-street cafe. A little dry, in all honesty, but the exquisite saltiness saved it...and perhaps the accompanying Estrella too.

• Checking out El Retiro Park- This was a truly unexpected pleasure. As a whole, I prefer Barcelona to Madrid, but in a perfect world, I would bring this park to Barcelona to make it the perfect city. We have Parc de la Citudella, but it doesn't have quite the same ambience as El Retiro- that relaxed, expansive feel that gives you space to breathe in the nature around you and clear your head. We didn't get a ride on the boat this time, but we did get to walk alongside Colombian dancers at the lakeside.

• La Latina. The perfect place for an ambling Sunday. Particularly Calle Cava de San Miguel, that led to all sorts of gastranomic delights. This included the wonderful mushrooms with garlic, olive oil and chorizo at Meson del Champi- just as good as when I had tried them in 2013- and an old favourite, pimientos de padron at Meson de Boqueron. The glorious sunshine gave the area even more of a buzz.

Julie at Plaza Mayor (with the obligatory Puss in Boats photo bomb).

A random Mexican joint called El Chaparrito, where Julie found tequila from her parents' home town.

Seems like Puss in Boats had lost interest by this point...

So, although I'm still in love with my Barcelona, I become fonder of Madrid with every visit. It may be missing that bohemian vibe that comes with being close to the ocean, but it has more than made up for it with its own chill-out spots, like the lakeside of El Retiro, and La Latina's winding streets. I'm incredibly keen to return- and this time maybe discover a more undercover Madrid. If there are any locals out there that would like to give me some tips, I would be more than happy to hear them!

Overall moral of the trip? Embrace random and spontaneous opportunities- in my opinion, the only regrets that truly linger are life's 'what-ifs'.